Since writing my post on how to get an even skin tone, I’ve been obsessed with one question: how can I get rid of sunspots for good? Even better, how can I get rid of them from developing in the first place?
Digging through old photos, I stumbled on a 2022 shot of myself—and here’s the shocker: at 40, my skin looks better now than it did back then! Somewhere along the way, my complexion evened out, my pores tightened, my rosacea calmed down, and those stubborn dark spots? They’ve faded more than I ever expected. Now before you roll your eyes—I’m still chasing that flawless, “glass skin” finish, especially with sun spots. I still have a couple stubborn ones.
About this before and after photo: I have not had ANY work done. No botox, filler, nothing. I’m not wearing makeup. I’m not using a filter. The results you see are all thanks to the tools you see below.
Types of Dark Spots
Sun spots are dark marks from too much sun. Basically, your melanin (the pigment of your skin) acts like a shield but when it overdoes it, your pigment clumps and you get spots.
Liver spots are a type of sun spot that show up when you’re older, no liver stuff involved. Age spots are basically the same as liver spots, just tied to getting older and sun damage.
In summary, all types stem from sun exposure that isn’t properly protected with antioxidants and/or sunscreen. More on that below.
Here’s the breakdown:
UV Light
UV rays trigger free radicals that tell your melanocytes to churn out extra melanin. Over time, this clumps into sun spots, especially on sun-exposed areas like your face and hands.
Hormones
Hormonal shifts, such as during pregnancy or from birth control, can have some undesirable effects on skin, such as melasma, a darker, patchier cousin of sun spots. They can also be trickier to get rid of. See below for Azelaic Acid.
Inflammation
Acne or harsh treatments can leave post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), a souvenir of skin stress.
Aging makes it worse—slower cell turnover traps pigment deeper, making age spots stick around. They’re not like freckles; they’re here to stay unless you act.
Prevention
The easiest way to get rid of age spots? Don’t let them form in the first place. See retinol and Ferulic Acid below…plus sunscreen!
Be Sunscreen Obsessed
Broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher (zinc-based is best–I love this no white cast one) every day, rain or shine. Reapply every two hours outside, and add a brimmed hat for extra armor. In my Guide to Sensitive Skin, celebrity dermatologist Dr. Glynis Ablon says,
“[Most] of my patients, when they get an SPF of 30? They’re good. But someone that easily sunburns, this may not be enough. You wear sunscreen so you don’t get a sunburn or sun tan.
If you go out and get a sunburn, or sun tan, with an SPF of 50, then 50 isn’t enough for you–you may need 100. If you go out and you’re fine with SPF of 15 with no tan, then it may be enough for you.”
Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist, emphasizes: “Sunscreen is the most important step in preventing hyperpigmentation. It’s crucial for everyone, but especially for those with darker skin tones who are more prone to hyperpigmentation.” (Byrdie) For more tips on preventing sun spots for all the skin types, check out this guide from the Skin Cancer Foundation. The American Academy of Dermatology agrees—it’s your first line of defense.
If you’d prefer to skip the creams and lotions for your sun protection, consider wearing protective clothing with SPF built in. If you’re doing any serious face treatments, you can also protect your skin with SPF sun visors as well (especially great after in-office treatments).
The Tools
I prefer at-home routines that are gentle since I’ve experienced some side effects while getting a so-called “gentle” face peel done. Unfortunately in-office chemical peels and laser treatments are much stronger and therefore can be riskier. But if you’re interested in which in-office ones to do for hyperpigmentation, look into the Clear and Brilliant laser (not the regular intense pulsed light ipl) and liquid nitrogen. Make sure to ask about scarring risks from applying a chemical solution (which I’ve experienced in-office during a peel) and hyperpigmentation from laser resurfacing before committing. As I’ve mentioned above, irritation can invite post-inflammatory pigmentation, so if you have sensitive skin like me, I would consider treating dark spots or patches slowly, patiently, and at home.
Since I tend not to go get facials in a salon, at-home tools I can use regularly are a must. In fact, one time I went to get a microcurrent and LED facial done and my facialist told me if I can’t come in once a week, I’m better off getting the tools myself so I can commit. Regular treatments are much more important than one strong treatment.
My favorite at-home Tools:
ZIIP Beauty
ZIIP is unique because it isn’t just microcurrent, it also uses nanocurrent. Nanocurrent is more chill (low level electrical currents), focusing on cell turnover for glow and fine lines and wrinkles over time. It’s not the same as microcurrent, which is stronger and more about flexing your face muscles for anti aging. This is my ride-or-die tool for almost 3 years (almost as long as my before and after shot above…) since I can commit to as little as 4 minutes a day or do multiple treatments for much longer while watching Netflix.
For dark spots, use it with the app programs “Electric Tone” and “Founders Favorite” for best results. You can even do the same spots over and over again to use it as a spot treatment. All by utilizing electricity to harness your own skin’s healing abilities. It’s magic. ZIIP formulated their Crystal Gel for dark spots.
ZIIP Routine (with the app waveforms)
3-5x a week
All-inclusive or Energize
Founders Favorite
End with either problem skin or electric tone (not on the same night)
LED Therapy
LED light therapy is a game-changer for your skin—like a superpowered rainbow. Red light stimulates collagen production to smooth texture, blue calms inflammation that can worsen pigmentation, and near-infrared dives deep to repair damage. For sun spots, red and near-infrared are your go-to colors for promoting cell turnover. At-home options like Currentbody’s Face mask are my favorites.
If money’s no object, the Dermalux is a must since you can isolate each color. Right now, I’m focusing my Dermalux on blue and infrared and have stopped red until I can eliminate the inflammation on my skin. Consider Dermalux an in-office treatment you can do at home regularly.
Microneedling
Microneedling gives your skin a wake-up call. Tiny needles create micro-injuries to kickstart collagen production and improve skin texture. It also helps your skin absorb brightening serums even deeper. Over time, this can fade sun spots and even out your complexion. I wrote about microneedling here. Hate needles? Try radio frequency instead since it’s the same concept but with heat.
BeautyBio Hydra Facial Tool
The BeautyBio Hydra Facial Tool uses gentle suction and serums to exfoliate, extract, and hydrate. While it is a gentler version than the in-office hydrafacial, I have found my skin looks much more even since using it. Its exfoliation power can remove dead skin cells and coax surface-level sunspots to fade when powered by their salicylic acid treatment, while hydration keeps your skin dewy. The companion treatment includes Hyaluronic Acid, collagen and peptides.” Use it 1-2 times a week to complement your ZIIP or LED routine and maintain that glass skin glow. By removing the dead skin on top, that vitamin C serum will absorb much better to treat dark spots.
Consider this tool if you suffer from rosacea or acne-related hyperpigmentation (see pubmed study and this one). I have rosacea and have eliminated many pustules.
Consistency with these tools pays off big time.
Key ingredients for your skin care products to Improve Skin tone
(scroll down for a visual chart)
Licorice Root
Reduces inflammation. Inhibits melanin production.
Retinol
When is retinol good to use for dark spots? When you’re looking for long term skin maintenance, apply retinol! Age related spots can take 8-12 weeks for results. Apply a pea sized amount of retinol like a spot treatment if your skin is more sensitive or if you’re just introducing retinol. Slowly increase in percentage if you’re using on your whole face. Prescription retinoids are some of the strongest retinol products, so start using retinol very slowly in your skin care routine if you are using it to combat the signs of aging.
Vitamin C
Brightens and blocks melanin—aim for 10-20% strength. Research highlights L-ascorbic acid, 3-o ethyl ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) as the best form of vitamin C types for dark spots. L-ascorbic acid is the most potent but may irritate sensitive skin. 3-o ethyl ascorbic acid, SAP and MAP offer gentler, effective alternatives. Lately I’ve been using this one, just make sure to seal it in (I like applying with a wet face and then putting 2-3 drops of squalane over it). Super affordable routine! Just don’t forget to seal in the hyaluronic acids with the squalane so your skin doesn’t dry out.
Ferulic acid is often a companion acid that helps prevent new spots from forming. A vitamin c spot treatment (or all over) can take 8-12 weeks.
Niacinamide
Evens tone and soothes inflammation. I like this niacinamide since I reacted to The Ordinary ingredients.
Azelaic Acid
Well suited for pregnancy/hormonal hyperpigmentation (FDA Category B) even if breastfeeding. Use 15-20% (e.g., Azelex) or 10% OTC twice daily with SPF 30+, expecting results in 4-12 weeks. It’s gentle, acne-fighting, per Healthline (Pregnancy-safe Skin Care), and matches hydroquinone’s efficacy, per Dermatology: how to manage facial hyperpigmentation. Check with your doctor since I think 14% is as high as you can get without a prescription.
Tranexamic Acid
A melasma-fighter that keeps pigment in check to lighten sunspots. Tranexamic acid is a water-soluble synthetic ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine. It must be used with oil-soluble ingredients to have it be most bioavailable to skin, so look for it in your skin lightening creams.
Glycolic acid
Fades pigment for uneven skin tone; often used for face peels for dark spots. I’m obsessed with this one since it’s still gentle for sensitive and dry skin. Try this one if you don’t need it to be gentle.
Lactic Acid
Exfoliates gently, great for sensitive skin. I like the Lactic Acid mask from Arcona and The Ordinary serum (again, it has HAs, so add squalane over it to prevent dry skin).
Salicylic Acid
If you deal with clogged pores, this is a great one to help fade dark spots
Kojic Acid
Traditionally used as a skin lightening/skin brightening agent because it inhibits pigment formation. Made from sake and other fermented foods.
This one looks like the best face wash for dark spots because it has very few but effective ingredients. They also make a pad.
Notice a theme? Acids sluff off layers of skin to allow your skin to shed those spots in about 4-6 weeks (when you have the right one for you). But you don’t need them all!
So which acid should you pick? Check out my chart based on your dry, normal or oily skin type.
Example routine: AM: Vitamin C + SPF. PM: Lactic acid or niacinamide.
Curious what skincare products I use to get my glowing skin? Check out my even skin tone article here.
You asked: Does castor oil help with dark spots?
I wouldn’t rely on it alone, as I’ve been using it for months without results. I apply castor oil for my gua sha massage almost every night. Though castor oil’s traditional use through Ayurveda is skin lightening (e.g., in Ayurveda), the studies are limited and it sounds like it may be from glow and hydration rather than actual melanin reduction. It may also depend on what type of spots you have.
Diet
Antioxidant Boost
Vitamin C in your skincare and/or diet (think berries) neutralizes free radicals before they trigger spots. Very good for your skin!
Vitamin D
Some argue with these studies (this study and this study) that with proper Vitamin D levels, you won’t have the same skin issues. Causation? Not confirmed yet, but there seems to be some correlation.
Probiotics
I’ve recently become obsessed with Seed Probiotic ever since Melanie Simon told me about the science behind it. Since taking it I’ve noticed a stronger pelvic floor (I just had a baby!), clearer skin, and more regularity. Definitely worth trying since your gut and skin are linked.
Foods & Things to avoid
Seed Oils
I’m sure you’ve heard it said you should avoid seed oils (check out the book Deep Nutrition). But did you know seed oils could be destroying your skin’s shield? Awesome side effect for going seed oil free: My in-laws just did a little test to see what it would do with their blood work and they saw their cholesterol profile significantly change for the better.Avoid these slip-ups
Overdoing It
Too much exfoliation = irritation = more spots. Stick to 1-2 times weekly. Avoid harsh scrubs and picking—irritation invites post-inflammatory pigmentation and post blemish marks.
Forgetting SPF: Actives like Vitamin C need sunscreen backup.
Forgetting to wear wide brimmed hats
Those spots don’t stand a chance. Share your progress below!
Safety First: Sun spots are usually benign, but watch for asymmetry or changes—see a derm if anything looks off.
SPECIAL PRICING FOR TVP READERS!!
ZIIP Halo Microcurrent: 10% off discount – use code VANILLAZIIP off ZIIP HALO and all ZIIP gels (my favorite gel is the silver one due to my sensitive skin) during checkout
Red Light Therapy: I’m kind of obsessed and once I started using different wavelengths and colors, I basically started a tool collection, which you can read about here. Since tools get very expensive, I am starting to ask for discount codes to make it a little more affordable. If you shop the Currentbody Facemasks or Dermalux, use these codes:
LED Masks and RF Facial Device: 10% off discount – use code VANILLALED at checkout
Dermalux: $150 off the Dermalux – use code VANILLAFLEX at checkout
Bluestone Sun Visor: MICHAELL15
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